If you have an electrical box for 2 devices, but only need 1 switch or outlet, you have 2 options: install the device to one side center the device. On the left, you will see the first device is off to one side. A centered switch looks more balanced. Square junction boxes do not have tabs for mounting devices.
The mud ring is held in place using the junction box screws in opposite corners. A switch or outlet can then be mounted directly to the mud ring.
A standard switchplate will not cover the damaged wall alongside the switch. The circuit neutral wire is connected to one of the neutral terminals on the outlet, it doesn't run to the switch.
The hot source is spliced to a pigtail that connect to the bottom, always-hot half on the receptacle and to the white cable wire running to SW1. The black cable wire runs to the SW1 connecting it to the hot on the top half of the split outlet. In this updated diagram 3-wire cable runs between the receptacle and switch and the red cable wire is used to carry the hot source to the switch. The neutral from the source is spliced through to the switch box using the white wire and in this diagram, the white wire is capped with a wire nut.
This represents a change in the NEC code that requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes. If you are running a new circuit, check the electrical code to understand this and any other updates to the required procedure. In this circuit a split receptacle is controlled by two separate switches.
With this arrangement, two lamps can be plugged into the same outlet and each can be controlled separately from two different locations. Here again the connecting tab between the receptacle terminals is broken off and the neutral tab remains intact. The source is at SW1 and 3-wire cable runs from there to the outlet, 2-wire cable runs from there to SW2.
The source hot wire is spliced with a pigtail to SW1 and to the black wire running to the receptacle box. At the box, the black wire is spliced with the white wire running to SW2. The white wire is mark black on both ends to identify it as hot. The red cable wire runs from SW1 to the hot terminal on the top half of the split receptacle.
The source neutral is spliced to the white wire running to the neutral on the receptacle. It doesn't matter which one, only one connection is needed. From the receptacle, the black cable wire running to SW2 is connected to the hot terminal on the bottom half and to the switch at the other end. In this updated diagram, 3-wire cable runs between the receptacle and SW2 to allow for splicing the neutral source through to the second switch box.
Here the white is not used for hot but instead the black wire serves that purpose for the second switch. The red wire to SW2 is connected to the hot on the bottom half of the receptacle and to the switch at the other end.
In this diagram, two 3 way switches control a wall receptacle outlet that may be used to control a lamp from two entrances to a room.
This circuit is wired the same way as the 3 way lights at this link. Three-wire cable runs between the switches and the outlet. The source is at the SW1 where the hot is connected to the common terminal and the neutral spliced through to the neutral on the outlet.
The red and black wires running from SW1 to the outlet are used as travelers. Wiring a light fixture so that it can be turned ON or OFF from more than 2 locations requires the installation of both 3-way and 4-way switches. Selection of 4-way switches.
There are numerous wiring scenarios. If you are replacing a 4-way switch it is only necessary for you to remove the wires from the defective switch and install them on the replacement switch in the same manner.
If you are installing a new circuit, then it is best if you feed the AC power to either the first switch or the light fixture. To feed power to a switch in the middle of the circuit, makes wiring that much more confusing. You can see more information about how to do this and how to cut chases here. Some plate switches are mounted in plastic boxes on the surface of the wall. In some cases there is not enough to have the traditional square or rectangular plate fitted and the switches need to be mounted above each other, rather than side by site.
These are known as architrave switches. These can have rockers or dimmer switches, depending on what you prefer. It is forbidden to wire a conventional switch within reach of a washbasin, bath or shower unit so you will need to use a ceiling switch in these circumstances, or put the plate switch outside the bathroom.
A ceiling switch is mounted to the roof and is switched on and off using a pull cord — see our project on how to fit a pull cord switch. It is very important to be safe. Please have a look at our project on electrical safety before you begin any project.
Make sure that the power is off and the circuit that you are working has been isolated. If you have any doubts at any time then you should consult a professional. Also remember that there are a large number of jobs that you are simply not allowed to do yourself if you are not properly trained.
Please see our project on Part P of the building regulations to understand the extent of electrical work you are not allowed to do in the home.
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